Here is a hopefully helpful list of all the known 2008 Toyota Tundra Problems. We are still big fans of the truck, we just thought a reference guide would be handy. The 2008 Toyota Tundra sure is one nice truck. Yet, like any vehicle, it has had a few problems come up. Location of Oil Filter Many people have stated that the location of the oil filter is “ridiculously stupid.” It is under the skid plate. So, yes you have to remove the skid plate to replace the oil filter. It isn’t terribly difficult to do, but it is one more step that seems needless. The notorious skid plate that you have to remove in order to change the oil filter. Thanks to Tundra Solutions.com member MHadden for the DIY with photos. Here is a good do-it-yourself guide on how to do it. Air Injection Pump Problems Many Toyota Tundra owners have reported problems with either air injection pumps seizing or air injection valves in the intake manifold rusting so that they can’t open or close any longer. While Toyota has come out with a special customer service program to warranty this problem, the warranty expires after 150k miles. Learn more about Tundra air injection problems here. Radio While we had hoped that Toyota would address the odd issues arising from the stock radio, it didn’t get addressed. Dealers are still replacing them as they come in. Got an odd radio issue like turning on/off. Take it to a dealer. Too-thin Tailgate Metal Many Tundra owners report that their tailgates have bent or broken during loading. We know that Toyota agreed to fix or replace some tailgates, and we have a copy of a Toyota internal memo that acknowledges the issue and also claims that the issue was fixed in 2007. However, some 2008 Tundra owners still report problems. Trouble Heating Up Quickly This was truly a strange one. It seems that Toyota decided that the truck was simply taking too long to heat up when it was.
[ Steering ] [ Brakes ] [ Gas Engine ] [ 12 Valve Diesel ] [ 24 Valve Diesel ] [ Axle, Drive Shaft ] [ Auto Transmission ] [ Body, Paint, Interior ] These sections have not moved to new pages yet; they are farther down on this page. [ Noise ] [ Manual Trans, Clutch] [ Transfer Case ] [ HVAC ] [ Electrical ] [ Suspension ] Important Numbers The MDH is the month, day, and hour (24 hour clock) of assembly of your truck as expressed as XXXXXXX. For example: a 1996 model with 020611 is February 6th of 1996, at 11:00 AM. That information is found on the white data plate in the driver side door jamb along with the recommended tire pressure and loading of standard tires. Look in the lower left corner for the MDH info. Write down the Date code, VIN, and any info from the data plate under the hood that lists the equipment found on your Dodge. Your dealer (or any CC dealer) can deliver a complete list of EVERYTHING that went into your truck by getting onto his DIAL 2000 line direct to CC and performing a Function 14. It will give you the as-built trans type, rear axle ratio, and the build code for each item. If is is not there CC didn't put it there during assembly, it came later. Diesel engines have a CPL number and a serial number on the engine data plate found on the side of timing gear case. If you find yourself stuck with a problem that the dealer can not or will not fix see Resolving Warranty Problems, an RTML posting with excellent advice for people with a service problem. NOISE Whistle while truck is moving (not turbo noise) - loose radio antenna Chirp or clunk from front end when driving over bumps bad lower ball joint, track bar, and/or intermediate steering shaft loose lower shock bolt Hissing from front of truck after engine turned off - normal; a result of pressure in AC condenser bleeding off. NOTE: AC runs in many positions of the.
As has been said - you can replace it from underneath but it's a real pig of a job. I had my cracked manifolds chamfered, welded and plated and then sprayed with heatproof paint. They lasted approximately 2k miles and now I'm in the same situation again. At the time many owners suggested replacing them instead of welding up but I thought I knew best. Be aware that if you do repair them and don't clean the insides of any shards or swarf you run the risk of those bits blowing off when hot and being ingested by your turbo. I made sure of mine so I was comfortable I'd be ok, but there is the risk. The genuine Noble manifolds available these days are far better than the originals and I don't recall anyone having problems with those. As for changing both, the rear is far easier to replace than the front so if it were me and my rear one was ok, I'd wait until it fails. But that's just my opinion.
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